1 to 9 sounds about right from the docs that I found with some of the paper. Thanks for the pointers!<div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div>Craig<br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 10:04 PM, Lilia Markham <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:liliakai@gmail.com">liliakai@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex;">The ilford stock is liquid and is located in a very large white jug at the back of the shelf with all the chemicals. Read the label for instructions. IIRC it's 1 part dev to 9 parts water, but don't take my word for it.<br>
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<br>Lilia</font><div><div></div><div class="h5"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 8:34 PM, craig spam <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:craig.spamy@gmail.com" target="_blank">craig.spamy@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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Hi Lilia,<div><br></div><div>I tried paper from two different boxes in/around the big bins in the darkroom. The part of the paper that I did not expose to light was totally white. I suspect that this means that it has not been exposed to light. From your description, I suspect it's bad developer.<div>
<br></div><div>Now that I think about it a bit harder, I should probably check if the developer (in powder form) is on the shelf before I get more. Le sigh.</div><div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div>CraigB<div><div></div>
<div><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">
On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 7:44 PM, Lilia Markham <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:liliakai@gmail.com" target="_blank">liliakai@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204);padding-left:1ex">
Paper developer was alright last time I used it. Are you using paper from the one of the big bins in the room? I've found at least one pack in there that was all bad. Use at your own risk.<br><br>If your picture looks under-developed (too light overall, no true black) then it might be bad developer.<br>
<br>If your picture looks over-exposed (dark and muddy, no true white) and/or if the unexposed border areas are greyish rather than true white, then it is bad paper.<br><br>-Lilia<br><br><div class="gmail_quote"><div><div>
</div><div>On Sun, Nov 14, 2010 at 6:58 PM, craig spam <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:craig.spamy@gmail.com" target="_blank">craig.spamy@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
</div></div><blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204);padding-left:1ex"><div><div></div><div>Hey All,<div><br></div><div>The saga of my mystery film continues... (Thanks, Lilia for helping me develop the film)</div>
<div><br></div><div>I tried to develop some photos today, but they developed much slower than I remember. Specifically:</div>
<div><br></div><div>I used a projector exposure of between 30 seconds and 300 seconds at 30 second increments (revealing small bits of the paper every 30 seconds).</div><div>I then put the paper in the developer marked "Ilford paper dev".</div>
<div><br></div><div>I expected to see photos begin to develop in 60 to 180 seconds, but it took more like 360 seconds and the photos came out with much less contrast than I would expect given the high contrast in the negative.</div>
<div><br></div><div>I'm thinking that the developer is probably all used up, but since it's been 10+ years since I've done any of this myself, I thought I'd ask a second opinion before I buy some more. Thoughts?</div>
<div><br></div><div>Cheers,</div><div>Craig</div>
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