<div dir="ltr">The link states that "A real rectifier characteristically drops part of the input voltage (a
voltage drop, for silicon devices, of typically 0.7 volts plus an
equivalent resistance, in general non-linear)". So my concern of "loss" at the diodes appears exaggerated. Thank you.<br></div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 7:08 PM, Joseph Brenner <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:doomvox@gmail.com" target="_blank">doomvox@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr"><div><div class="">"Still not clear on cause of alternator being more efficient when half it's cycle is blocked by diode(s). "<br>
<br></div>I was envisioning "full wave rectification":<br><br> <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rectifier" target="_blank">https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rectifier</a><br>
<br></div>Where the sine wave then gets turned into a series of connected mcdonalds arches.<br><br><div><br><br></div></div><div class="HOEnZb"><div class="h5"><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 2:33 PM, Robert Benson <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:sf99er@gmail.com" target="_blank">sf99er@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir="ltr">Thx for the info & link. Looks like the NC25A Charge Controller may be better than a voltage regulator if you dump excess to aux battery. Still not clear on cause of alternator being more efficient when half it's cycle is blocked by diode(s). Anyway, I think I'll get an alternator instead of the generator I was planning to get. Thx again. Cheers<br>
</div><div class="gmail_extra"><br><br><div class="gmail_quote">On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 1:53 PM, Joseph Brenner <span dir="ltr"><<a href="mailto:doomvox@gmail.com" target="_blank">doomvox@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br>
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<br>Typically, a "generator" implies it's DC output, and an "alternator"<br>
implies the output is AC.<br>
To charge a battery, you need to "rectify" the output from an<br>
alternator to fake DC, but<br>
that's more efficient because you get to use the full cycle.<br>
<br>
There's a bunch of other issues... you probably want a "deep discharge<br>
marine/rv" battery--<br>
and the last time I messed with this kind of thing, there was no good<br>
substitute for Sears Die Hards--<br>
and you'll want some sort of voltage regulator to keep from overcharging...<br>
<br>
There's a bunch of web pages like this around that talk about this stuff:<br>
<br>
<a href="http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-charge-a-12v-battery-with-an-exercise-bicycle" target="_blank">http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-charge-a-12v-battery-with-an-exercise-bicycle</a><br>
<br>
On Thu, Aug 28, 2014 at 10:20 AM, Robert Benson <<a href="mailto:sf99er@gmail.com" target="_blank">sf99er@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><div><div>
> I'm building a 12v bike generator out of a stationary bike exercise stand.<br>
> Does anyone (jake) know if a car generator or alternator is better or what<br>
> the differences are in output? thx<br>
><br></div></div><div>
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