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��� Watch out for initial charging current: <br>
a big cap allows a near short circuit for <br>
a lot of micro-seconds that might burn <br>
out the rectifier. <br>
��� Either get a rectifier that's over-spec'd <br>
or put a small value resistor in series <br>
between the rectifier and the cap. <br>
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 08/29/2014 11:09 AM, Adrian Chadd
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:CAJ-Vmo=_10i1KQ9T1xLgq_GsQNov06qNppmoFb1RcmwLyvZWEQ@mail.gmail.com"
type="cite">
<div dir="ltr"><br>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br>
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<div class="gmail_quote">On 29 August 2014 10:37, Robert
Benson <span dir="ltr"><<a moz-do-not-send="true"
href="mailto:sf99er@gmail.com" target="_blank">sf99er@gmail.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0 0 0
.8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">The link states that "A real rectifier
characteristically drops part of the input voltage (a
voltage drop, for silicon devices, of typically 0.7
volts plus an equivalent resistance, in general
non-linear)". So my concern of "loss" at the diodes
appears exaggerated. Thank you.</div>
</blockquote>
<div>�</div>
<div>That's why you put a 1000uF cap across the output of
the rectifier.</div>
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<div>-a</div>
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