[Build] Box of 4" long square-drive screws

[Bill Pollock]

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Well, depending on how large the room is, we might be able to create a
pretty quiet wall with decoupling only. The product called Green Glue is
supposed to work really well -- you just "scribble" it on between two
layers of sheetrock. It's about $15-30 per 4x8 piece of rock.

As for decoupling, RC channel could do it but I've read better reports
about soundproof clips that attach to the studs. The drywall is screwed
into the clips -- effectively decoupling the walls.

A product called QuietRock might be another option but it's supposed to
be very heavy and not necessarily worth the increased cost (about $40
per 4x8 sheet if I recall correctly).

If this were an enclosed space within the space, I think it could be
done relatively cheaply. Would be an interesting experiment anyway.

Bill

jim wrote:
>    seems to me we should not attempt sound isolation 
> but rather sound dampening. sound isolation typically 
> requires angled walls that are decoupled from the 
> floor and ceiling and exterior walls, double walls 
> between rooms, and near perfect air seals. 
>    even if we tried to build walls from the floor 
> to the ceiling, we wouldn't achieve a near enough 
> perfect seal. 
>    we might be able to build a little hutch that was 
> sound proof, a la recording studio, but it would take 
> a lot of wood, sheet rock, carpentry.... 
> 
>    if we have lots of shelves, the shelves and the 
> stuff on the shelves will break up the sound a lot. 
> it may be that judiciously placed high and mid 
> frequency dampers hung here and there would reduce 
> sound transmission from one area to another. 
>    not likely to reduce bass frequencies much without 
> decoupling from the floor (e.g. speaker cabinets 
> suspended from the ceiling, some kind of absorbent 
> rug or foam under an anvil...). 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Sat, 2009-08-15 at 16:56 -0700, Bill Pollock wrote:
> Here's some good information on soundproofing:
> 
> http://urbansoundproofing.blogspot.com/
> 
> I've read a good bit about soundproofing though I'm only using resilient
> channel (RC) in one ceiling on my building. I've got 5/8" drywall on the
> walls which seems to do a good job, though it's not enough to insulate
> against the noise of power tools.
> 
> For real sound isolation, it seems to me that some sort of soundproofing
> clip, maybe coupled with green glue, would be great, but the cost per sf
> can be high.
> 
> Bill
> 
> dpc wrote:
>>>> John Magolske <listmail at b79.net> writes:
>>>>
>>>>> At last night's build team meeting I mentioned having a big box of
>>>>> 4" long square-drive screws I could donate. These may end up being
>>>>> useful for attaching walls to the floors & to each other, making it
>>>>> easier to move them and re-configure the layout over time if need be.
>>>> i think you had an example that was a flat head? (flat on top w/ a cone
>>>> into the threading area that would be sort of 'countersunk'). offhand
>>>> (since you said they were in storage) do you know the pitch or diameter?
>>>> just thinking that too 'thin' is slightly less good for attaching to
>>>> the floor but ok for panel joins.
>>>>
>>>> anyway, this reminded me of something that occurred to me on my way home
>>>> last night but that i somehow forgot during the four block trip.  are
>>>> people thinking that the 'walls' are going to be 'real'? (ie, something
>>>> like 4" w/ maybe some sort of sound insulation). less reconfigurable but
>>>> i'm not sure i've ever been in 83c when someone's been using the shop
>>>> (i've used it but didn't notice how much i was disturbing people on the
>>>> outside :-)
>>>>
>>>> \p
>>>>
>>>> ---
>>>> That's libertarians for you - anarchists who want police protection from
>>>> their slaves. - Kim Stanley Robinson
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- --
William Pollock, Founder
No Starch Press
+1 415.863.9900
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