[Tastebridge] Brewbot - beer making

Tue Oct 8 10:13:37 UTC 2013

Appropriate No Chill containers. There should be some extra information on
process.

http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/no-chill-containers-345726/

Just to reiterate the process:
- transfer your beer while it is still hot, into the cube, dont delay in
transfer, or accelerate the cooling process
- ideally you want to minimise any splashing or aeration (a silicone hose
is ideal) as it will introduce oxygen that can reduce the longevity of your
beer
- you want to remove as much headspace as you can, by squeezing the air and
capping it, you *WILL* need heat protecting gloves for this
- cap it tightly, and then rotate the cube on its side, or top so that the
beer makes contact with all the sides for a prolonged period
- you want to ensure that every part of the internals, especially the
handle space and the cap makes contact with the hot wort for at least 20
mins.
- allow it to cool naturally, don't accelerate the process
- your wort is pasteurised now, and will keep indefinitely, until you have
fermenter space free
- when you pitch, you can simply siphon the clear wort off of the cold
break into the FV, add your hydrated yeast and aerate as usual

On Mon, Oct 7, 2013 at 1:09 PM, Richard Conroy <richard.conroy at gmail.com>wrote:

> If you are making a 20L batch, you wont be able to cool effectively
> without using an active cooling mechanisms, or doing a sterile passive
> cooling (aka No Chill).
>
> I use No Chill myself, active cooling is very wasteful of water, unless
> you can either recover the water, or you have very expensive chillers that
> are more efficient.
>
> I will find you a link on no-chill brewing, but what you want is a 25L
> HDPE plastic water carrier. You transfer your beer from the kettle when it
> is still hot (at 0 mins if you can), into the plastic container. When it is
> done, you squeeze out as much headspace (air) as you can - which may be
> difficult. Cap it tightly, and then tip it on its side, so that the hot
> wort makes contact with *every* side of the container. In essence you
> pasteurise the wort in a sealed vessel. Your beer will keep for long
> periods in these cubes. As it cools, it will contract, and you know it is
> safe to brew with. If you do it wrong, and dont kill everything in there,
> it will ferment when it cools. If you see gas expansion after a few days,
> dump the beer (its a primary breeding environment for botulism if you do it
> wrong).
>
> Your recipe looks good. Its looking a lot like a dark german or belgian
> style beer. For hops I would then use something european, like perle or
> saaz. You want those hops to stay out of the way. If you like the
> spicyness, I would favour Saaz. I will send you a recipe of mine for a
> belgian blonde and you can get the proportions out of it.
>
> You can make the beer a bit sweeter by mashing at a higher temperature
> (~68C) but I would avoid doing that for now, as it is quite an advanced
> skill, and a bit much for your first brew day.
>
> Skip the gypsum for now - you dont know what your water pH is, so messing
> with water alkalinity is not something you want to worry about., again this
> is an advanced skill.
>
> You are using pilsener malt, so I would recommend a longer/90 minute boil,
> to remove volatile undesirable chemicals like DMS and its precursors. Dont
> cover the kettle while this is happening.
>
> Are you sure you have the right yeast? S-04 is the english style yeast,
> US-05 is american ale yeast.
>
> Fermentis T-58 might be what you want aswell - it will introduce some
> clove like spicyness, and is happy with high fermentation temperatures.
>
> Why are you only doing a seperate steep for Carafa2? This is your first
> brew, so mash everything together. The beer will turn out grand - your
> recipe is fine, and the munich will put a bit of sweetness into it. The
> dark grains will put complexity and body and colour, and their proportions
> are good.
>
>
> On Mon, Oct 7, 2013 at 12:18 PM, Frantisek Apfelbeck <algoldor at yahoo.com>wrote:
>
>> Thanks Richard!
>> By the way I'm now planning to start experiment with dark beer, I have
>> been recommended the recipe below for a simple start, just ingredient not
>> really the procedure, that is something what I have to study. I have been
>> warned that I should be very carefully about the cooling down face which is
>> suppose to be as quick as possible (I did not make beer (malt based beer)
>> before. I would like to know your suggestions and recommendations. I like
>> sweeter caramel like taste of beer, I do not like bitter. Any
>> recommendations about procedure on brewing is welcome! I have standard
>> kitchen equipment plus large kitchen equipment, straining bags,
>> cheesecloths etc. Please consider that all ingredients which I need will
>> have to be imported to Jeju, Kore where I'm now living.
>>
>> Dark Beer brewing recipe 22/9/2013
>>
>> Batch size = 20 l? (6% (w/v) alcohol)
>>
>> Malts
>> 5 kg of Pilsner malt
>> 1 kg of Munich malt
>> 300 g of caramunich 3
>> 100 g cara aroma
>> 300 g carafa2 (steep separate)
>>
>> Hops
>> any hops that provide 4-5% of aa (60 min boiling) - Kent Golding
>> suitable? other?
>> any spicy hop (10 min boiling) - crystal suitable? other?
>> optional - 1 tablespoon of gypsum (to lower pH)
>>
>> Yeast
>> S05
>> Safale S05 (London ale yeast)
>>
>>
>> Many thanks for any help,
>>
>> Sincerely,
>>
>> Frantisek Algoldor Apfelbeck
>>
>>
>> biotechnologist&kvasir and hacker
>>
>>
>> http://www.frantisekapfelbeck.org
>>
>>
>> "There is no way to peace, peace is the way." Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi
>>
>>   ------------------------------
>>  *From:* Richard Conroy <richard.conroy at gmail.com>
>> *To:* "091-food at googlegroups.com" <091-food at googlegroups.com>
>> *Cc:* Food Hacking Hackerspaces org Food Hacking Hackerspaces org <
>> foodhacking at lists.hackerspaces.org>; tastebridge tastebridge <
>> tastebridge at lists.noisebridge.net>
>> *Sent:* Monday, October 7, 2013 6:20 PM
>> *Subject:* Re: Brewbot - beer making
>>
>> This on the other hand: http://www.brewjacket.com/
>>
>> Is a fermentation control device (for temperature). So is
>> http://coolbrewing.com which is even more low tech, but less precise.
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 7, 2013 at 10:10 AM, Richard Conroy <richard.conroy at gmail.com
>> > wrote:
>>
>> There have been quite a few devices of this kind entering the market.
>>
>> However all of them are focused on the mash & boil aspects of making
>> beer, but none really go into the fermentation aspects.
>>
>> Most beer brewers who are serious about it, and have space, will invest
>> in a fridge for temperature controlled fermentation, and that is usually
>> all you need to care about in beer brewing (once you have aerated and
>> pitched correctly).
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Oct 6, 2013 at 4:54 AM, Frantisek Apfelbeck <algoldor at yahoo.com>wrote:
>>
>> For the ones interested in beer brewing, what do you think beer masters?
>>
>>
>> http://www.kickstarter.com/projects/cargo/brewbot-the-smart-brewing-appliance
>>
>> The call for the participation in the experimental incubator project
>> under the Food Hacking Base (fhb) logo which I want to announce at 30c3 in
>> Hamburg (end of December) would be more simple and less costly focused on
>> variety of ferments like yogurt making, kimchi, makgeolli (Koren alcoholic
>> rice beverage) etc. rather than just beer. First versions would be more
>> about experimenting building up the base for more robust and simple device
>> which would be dedicated to household "production" use rather than an
>> experimental adventures. However the both lines - production and
>> experimentation, in the future should be developed.
>>
>> Anyone interested in talk to me!
>>
>>  Sincerely,
>>
>> Frantisek Algoldor Apfelbeck
>>
>>
>> biotechnologist&kvasir and hacker
>>
>>
>> http://www.frantisekapfelbeck.org
>>
>>
>> "There is no way to peace, peace is the way." Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi
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>>
>>
>> --
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>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>
>
> --
> http://richardconroy.blogspot.com | http://twitter.com/RichardConroy
>

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