[Noisebridge-discuss] PCB fab places?

Jake jake at spaz.org
Thu Nov 24 05:36:54 UTC 2011

standard pin headers and through-hole ICs are based on 0.100" centers. 
Resolution of a laser printer is way better than that, my friend made me a 
board for a micro-max 10 chip, which is something like 0.020" between 

It's easy to make something like an arduino shield.

On Wed, 23 Nov 2011, Ray wrote:

> That's an idea! What does the accuracy on the holes seem to be like?
> It's a sort of shield for an arduino mega, so that's lots o' holes and
> they sorta have to line up. I remember when I did make my own PCB one
> time, it was a little rough around the edges but it didn't matter on
> that because it was like one chip and 2 relays haha.
> Ray
> On Wed, Nov 23, 2011 at 4:57 PM, Jake <jake at spaz.org> wrote:
>> You can fab boards at noisebridge.  Its not that hard, i've done it many
>> times.
>> You take some glossy paper (i used to buy cheap inkjet paper, and then i
>> discovered that glossy magazine pages work just as well) and a blank
>> circuitboard (we have tons of the stuff in the PCB bin on the shelf)
>> print your board pattern (mirror image) with a LASER PRINTER onto the
>> glossy paper,
>> clean the circuitboard with a green slightly abrasive dishsponge, with
>> running water and soap, polishing it to a dull shine, rinse off the soap,
>> and put it in a toaster oven to dry it off.
>> put some regular paper down on the table, put the circuitboard on that,
>> and now put the toner-side down glossy paper onto the circuitboard.  Now
>> put a couple layers of regular paper on top of that.
>> Now, iron it!  use a clothes iron, set to the highest temperature, and
>> iron the shit out of the whole thing.  It takes practice, or you can get
>> me to do it and i'll show you, but when you're done, all the toner is
>> transferred to the circuitboard.
>> After it cools, take off the paper and see your art on the board.  If
>> there are any spots where the toner didn't take, use a paint pen or nail
>> polish or pretty much anything to touch it up (even Sharpie works) and
>> mask off other areas (or the other side, if it's a two-sided board)
>> then throw it in the Ferric Chloride.. yes we have some.
>> After a few minutes in the FeCl the board is etched - you can see it
>> happening.  Take it out, rinse it off (don't get FeCl on the stainless
>> steel sink though) and now clean off the toner with a solvent (nail polish
>> remover works, as do other things) and start drilling holes.
>> If you set up your software to print holes as holes in the printout, you
>> will now have little divets on your copper pattern.  It's easy to get the
>> little drillbit to center on these holes because the copper deflects the
>> drillbit until it's centered.  A child could do it!
>> lemme know if you want help.
>> -jake
>>> Hey,
>>> Does anybody know of a good place to get a pc board fabbed? I've
>>> usually used gold phoenix for projects that need multiples of the same
>>> design, but this time I just need one. It doesn't need more than 2
>>> layers or anything fancy, does anybody have a favorite local place for
>>> this kinda thing?
>>> Cheers
>>> Ray
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