[Noisebridge-discuss] soldering copper sheet metal
jim
jim at well.com
Sun Nov 1 03:34:52 UTC 2015
oh: yes, I want to solder the pieces together.
I've tried with clamping--no dice.
On 11/01/2015 03:28 AM, jim wrote:
>
> yes. I've cut small pieces of 30 gauge and also 24
> gauge and have tried to tin them (tin 'em first, then
> solder them together, yes?) with horrid results: a dark
> brown crust develops that shows little round pin-head
> sized circles and the solder just sits in a ball and
> then rolls off.
> I've used two different types of flux and various
> types of solder (tin-lead, silver...).
> I've gotten the copper bright red with a propane
> torch. I've used a soldering iron.
> I've washed them with alcohol, paint thinner, and
> muriatic acid; I've also washed them with a solution
> of lye and sodium carbonate and borax. I've sanded
> them with fine and with coarse paper, by hand and
> with an orbital sander.
>
> In the past I've soldered electronic circuits and
> copper pipe successfully.
> A couple of experienced people say it sounds like
> the surface of the copper sheets is contaminated, but
> golly! After all that scrubbing and washing and flux
> and heating?
>
>
>
> On 11/01/2015 03:08 AM, Cere Davis wrote:
>>
>> So ur just trying to solder copper to copper?
>>
>> On Oct 25, 2015 4:37 PM, "jim" <jim at well.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I've soldered electronics and plumbing and
>> am stuck trying to solder copper sheet metal.
>> I've used a soldering iron and a propane torch.
>> I've used alcohol, acetone, and paint thinner
>> to clean the copper as well as fine and coarse
>> sandpaper to clean the surfaces. I'm using
>> electronic flux (haven't yet tried plumbing
>> flux).
>> The soldering is not working: solder does
>> not flow or adhere to the copper, and there's
>> a brown residue that appears after heating.
>> Using a torch for forty or fifty seconds
>> results in flame that does not immediately
>> expire.
>>
>> Anybody got tips?
>>
>>
>>
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>
>
>
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